Village Guide: Lixouri — Kefalonia's Other Capital

Village Guide: Lixouri — Kefalonia's Other Capital

Lixouri (Ληξούρι) sits at the end of the Paliki peninsula (η Παλική), looking back across the gulf at Argostoli. The two towns are close enough to shout across the water — in theory — but getting between them by road requires a 45-kilometre drive. The alternative is the ferry: a 15-minute crossing that runs every 30 minutes in summer, making a Lixouri day trip from Argostoli one of the more enjoyable small adventures on the island.

The Rivalry

Every Greek island has its rivalries, and Kefalonia's most famous is between Argostoli and Lixouri. The people of Lixouri regard themselves as more cultured, more literary, and slightly more aristocratic than their neighbours across the water. The rivalry expresses itself in municipal pride, in carnival season competitions, and in a certain Lixouriot scepticism about anything originating from Argostoli. Visitors find it charming.

The Town

Lixouri is a working town. The wide waterfront promenade — lined with cafés and tavernas — is where the day begins and ends for most residents, at a pace distinctly slower than the island capital. The neoclassical library, rebuilt after the 1953 earthquake, remains a point of local pride.

Xi Beach

Twelve kilometres south of Lixouri on the western coast of Paliki, Xi (το Ξι) is one of the island's most unusual beaches — a long bay of reddish clay with greenish water and large driftwood logs. The clay has a reputation as a natural skin treatment, and swimmers regularly coat themselves in it before entering the sea. There are also donkeys. Several proprietors have decided that donkeys are what people want on a beach, and they are correct: the donkeys of Xi beach are genuinely popular. Sunbeds and a bar are also available.

Petani Beach

Fifteen kilometres northwest of Lixouri, Petani (οι Πετανοί) is a completely different proposition — a long pebble bay with deep turquoise water backed by sheer limestone cliffs. It is one of the most dramatic beaches on the island. Go mid-morning and leave by 2pm to avoid the afternoon crowd.

Kounopetra

The Rocking Stone of Paliki — a large offshore rock that used to oscillate rhythmically until the 1953 earthquake locked it in place — sits at the southwestern tip of the peninsula. It is now simply a large rock, but the story is worth knowing, and the views from the platform are good.

Where to Eat

Akrogiali on the waterfront is the standard choice for fish — reliable, unpretentious, good prices. The café strip on the promenade does excellent loukoumades (Greek doughnuts) in the mornings.

Getting There

The car ferry from Argostoli runs every 30 minutes in summer (every 60 in winter); crossing time 15 minutes. Tickets are purchased on board. Taking a scooter costs less than a car, and Lixouri's main sights are accessible on two wheels.

Practical Notes

Lixouri is a functional base for the Paliki peninsula — Xi, Petani, and Kounopetra are all accessible from here. Not sure what to prioritise? Ask Memas for a personalised recommendation.