The Secret Coast of Northern Kefalonia
The northern tip of Kefalonia feels like a different island. While most visitors gravitate toward the famous beaches at Myrtos, Antisamos and Skala, the coastline north of Fiskardo conceals a string of coves that require a little effort to reach — and reward that effort generously. Turquoise water, smooth white pebbles, ancient olive trees growing almost to the shoreline, and on most summer days, not another soul in sight.
Fiskardo is the natural base for exploring this stretch of coast. The village survived the catastrophic 1953 earthquake entirely intact and remains the most atmospheric settlement on the island, with its Venetian-era stone houses, a working harbour and a cluster of excellent restaurants and tavernas. Boat hire, kayak tours and guided coastal excursions all depart from here.
Dafnoudi Beach
A 20-minute walk from Fiskardo along a well-worn footpath through a centuries-old olive grove brings you to Dafnoudi. The beach is all smooth round pebbles — white, grey and black — and the water shifts from pale turquoise over the shallows to deep indigo further out. Pine trees shade the upper reaches of the beach. There are no facilities whatsoever, so bring water, food and sunscreen. The payoff is a beach of extraordinary beauty in almost total quiet.
Foki Beach
A short drive or a 35-minute coastal walk north of Fiskardo, Foki is a narrow inlet where tamarisk trees lean out over the pebbled shore and the water achieves a clarity that makes the seabed appear much closer than it is. It is one of the finest snorkelling spots in northern Kefalonia, with a rocky bottom inhabited by octopus, sea urchins, wrasse and the occasional moray eel. A small seasonal taverna sometimes operates in July and August, but do not rely on it.
Emblisi Beach
Perhaps the most photographed beach in the north, Emblisi sits in a perfectly sheltered bay about 1.5 km from Fiskardo's harbour. A steep rough track leads down from the main road, though most visitors arrive by boat or kayak. The beach of white and pale grey pebbles is backed by low cliffs and the water is an almost unreal shade of blue-green. Go early in the morning before the day-tripper boats arrive.
Kimilia and Alaties
Further along the coast, accessible only by sea, Kimilia and Alaties are the wildest of the northern beaches. Most boat trips out of Fiskardo stop at one or both as part of their morning excursions. Kimilia is a small white-pebble cove sheltered by limestone cliffs; Alaties is wider, with unusually greenish water. Swimming here, with no road and no development in sight, feels genuinely remote.
Getting There
- By hire boat: Small motorboats available from Fiskardo harbour (from €60/day; engines up to 30hp require no licence)
- Guided boat trip: Half-day excursions from Fiskardo (€30–40 per person) typically cover all the northern beaches
- On foot: Dafnoudi and Foki are reachable by footpath from Fiskardo; Emblisi via the rough track
- By kayak: Fiskardo Kayak organises guided and self-guided paddle routes covering this entire coastline
Best Time to Visit
May to early June and September are ideal: warm water, calm seas and far fewer visitors than in high season. The north coast becomes choppy in the afternoon Meltemi wind during July and August, so plan beach visits for the morning.
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